The french always have something to say.
In media, on the news, on current events, on wages and decisions made by other people. The french always have something to say and I’ve found that to be admirable.
About government choices, increased prices, headlines, global news, local news. The weather, if it’s raining, if it’s sunny, if it’s windy, there will always be something to say.
“Bonjour” walking into the elevator, “au revoir” when leaving the boulangerie, “merci quand même” when they try to help you without having all the information. One thing is for certain, the french will always greet you and bid you farewell.
They always have something to say, but it’s usually out of curtesy, or in disapproval or agreement with someone. Sometimes they tend to talk at you, not with you, and I’ve gotten used to that. You receive information and you get on with your day. That’s all there is, usually, from strangers.
I don’t know what else I’d be looking for anyway. What would you expect from strangers, if not strange little conversations that won’t ever leave the street they were had on.
It is important to note, for those that don’t know, that not all strangers are equal in this universe, and I’ve come to know a lot of strangers in my life, and some have broken out of their assigned cubicles of strangers, to actual connections.
On the plane, terrified of every little thing I heard around me, I boarded the flight from Paris to Beirut with my heart in my hands.
I used to be able to choose my seat on the plane, nothing fancy, just not stuck in the middle of a row of four. An aisle seat gave me some peace, even if I had nowhere to escape to.
Now, adding insult to injury, even at check-in, they make me pay extra just to choose a normal seat.
So here I was stuck between 3 people I don’t know, and 3 strangers who, most importantly, don’t know me.
I put my seat belt on even though we hadn’t moved yet, when I start noticing the woman sitting next to me glancing at me a few times, as if she was actively containing herself from speaking. I looked at her, and noticed her perfect little bob resting on her shoulders. She had pearl earrings and was dressed very chic-ly for the flight. She reminded me a little of my mom. Maybe that’s why we were able to hold a conversation for a little over four hours. And it was only when we landed that I realised that my screen wasn’t working the entire flight. I wondered then what I would’ve done had I had to look at an empty screen for 4 hours between strangers that had no desire to talk besides their usual trivial conversations.
She was Armenian-Lebanese, visiting her grandchildren in multiple corners of the world. She is in her seventies and doesn’t look it at all. Widowed in her thirties, she’s raised children under the sounds of missiles and gunshots in war-torn Lebanon as she described it, and is carrying her smile to this day, on this plane, next to a 29 year old girl who was anxious about all the different noises she was hearing on what proved to be a perfectly safe aircraft.
We ended up exchanging numbers, I sent her pictures of my outfit for the wedding I was to attend in a few days. A stranger now excited about my event, just as much as I was.
I notice the difference in the conversations strangers have in France and in Lebanon.
I notice how when my friend drives his car in the mountains in Lebanon, he lifts his arm outside his window, saluting every single driver and shopkeeper on the road. He did it as a joke first, screaming aloud something incomprehensible – the wrong name, a random word. But it was well recieved every single time. “After all”, he tells me, “if you pretend you’ve known strangers for your whole life, they will likely believe it.”
Not all strangers are alike. Not all strangers are equal on the spectrum of strangeness.
As soon as the sun started peeking through my window as we hovered over Beirut, I notice how the sun is even a little different from Paris. A little less shy, a little more warm. How she let herself in, uninvited, without a “Bonjour”, but still as warm as she could possibly be. She just sat with me like a stranger that once knew me very well.
I wonder if the reason why strangers are so warm here is because she herself has never left their side.
I wonder if she wrapped around them so gently, it became the only way they knew how to be, because warmth felt familiar.
Warmth followed me everywhere I went here. Warmth disguised as a lifeguard that knew my name even though I’d met him once last year, but he remembered the day, he remembered what happened and how we left terrified from the sounds of what we thought were air strikes.
He remembered because as soon as I sat, he said “you look worried, don’t worry, nothing will happen, we’ll be taking good care of you today”.
Warmth disguised as my neighbours on their balcony almost pouring themselves out of their terrace, as their voices race down to reach me and my suitcases, yelling my name so loudly it echoed on the whole street, almost as if to announce my arrival to the entire city. “Hamdella al saleme!”, “welcome back”- thankfully safe and sound.
Neighbours pinch my cheeks, family kisses me, lebanon embraces me, hugs me tightly, I rest my head on her shoulder, she takes my face and wipes my tears with her thumbs.
I miss you when I swore I wouldn’t. Things weren’t going well for you for some time, but you sat here in pain and fear, and uncertainty, and you waited for me. You waited for your children to return home.
I’m sorry I’m scared of you. I’m sorry I’m scared for you. Thank you for keeping my seat warm, it was always what you’ve done best.